After signing off in New York and London, designers and their darlings were back in the Italian fashion capital of Milan. While Gigi Hadid and Vittoria Ceretti were back modelling for Versace, Irina Shayk dazzled during the Dolce & Gabbana show, offering an ode to musical maestro Madonna, who was in attendance. Kendall Jenner modelled for Bottega Veneta.
“While the freshest, most inspiring creations are being debuted on the runways, there is also plenty to see on the cobbled streets of the busy Italian city, where Hollywood and music industry personalities are interpreting the catwalk trends in their own creative ways,” noted Rosa Sanchez at Harper’s Bazaar.
A Baptism by Fire for Gucci
The past year has been difficult for the Italian luxury label. Recently reported figures showed that Gucci’s sales had fallen by 20% year on year in the second quarter of 2024. The newly appointed creative director Sabato De Sarno had a tough job on his hands. And then, he managed to do the unthinkable.
Gucci’s De Sarno-inspired ‘casual grandeur’ aesthetic ruled the runway at Milan Fashion Week this year. De Sarno also channelled the Tom Ford theme. For instance, the designer showcased a pair of black and white maxidresses with side slits and gold metal details, offering a throwback to Tom Ford’s 1990s Gucci era. The 1960s aesthetic of silk headscarves and oversized sunglasses “worn with popped-collar knits and short skirts” was also showcased on the runway. Backstage, the designer said, “Casual grandeur was tailoring, lingerie, leather, 60s silhouettes … and the moment the sun dives into the sea at the end of an August day”.
Ode to Madonna
Dubbed “Italian Beauty”, the collection channelled the singer-songwriter’s 1990s aesthetics, inspired by her 1993 The Girlie Show. The tour had been to promote the launch of Madonna’s Erotica album and coffee table book, Sex. It became groundbreaking, given it was the first instance where a major cultural icon embraced feminine sensuality with shame or stigma. The Dolce & Gabbana show was a reflection of that spirit. With bleach blond hair, cone bras paired with a pencil skirt, garters popping out from corsets—it was all the way 90s Madonna. After closing their show, the designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana walked down the runway to greet their guests of honour, Madonna. The singer-songwriter was heavenly in her black-gold long lace veil and gown.
Celebrities at the show
The Fendi show featured Shailene Woodley, Jade Thirlwall, and Marina Abramović, while Sarah Paulson, Amanda Peet, Carey Mulligan, and Simone Ashley were at the Prada show. Dakota Johnson, Jessica Chastain, and Nicola Coughlan were among the guests at Gucci. Taylor Hill, Amanda Lear and Valeria Bruni Tedeschi were at Elisabetta Franchi’s.
