Reflecting on the extravaganza that the Milan Fashion Week brought out in the men’s niche market, it is finally time to let our simmering anticipation for the Paris Men’s Fashion Weak for the S/S 2020 collection pour out. The calendar for the 2020 menswear spring collection is out and has created a spur for couture excitement in the world of luxury.
The Paris Men’s Fashion Week, running from the 18th to the 23rd of June this year includes three brands primarily exhibiting their innovations after shifting from their New York schedule. The schedule released by the French Couture Federation has elevated our excitement with the announcement that Palomo Spain and Bode will be opening the first day of the Paris Men’s Fashion Week, which this time has promised a full day show rather than the usual half-day routine.
On the 19th of June, the runway of Paris Men’s Fashion Week will present the S/S collection of Etudes which is envisioning a mix in its signature style with a touch of sportswear. The collection nods to classic pieces embellished by an occasional pop of colour. The idea of drawing inspiration from art finds its way in the SS19 season with Los Angeles painter, Henry Taylor becoming a guest artist with his illustrations, ’Resting’ and ‘Man on Horseback in Naples, TX’, featured as prints on silk shirts and jerseys. We are promised a clash of poncho-striped knits, bandana paisley, airbrush stripes and American camouflage transposed onto voluminous shapes, the context of which will be twisted through silhouettes.
The 20th June has the runway scheduled for Sean Suen PWR, which will be an emotional journey elaborating on themes like helplessness of youth, freedom of escape, fear that leads into hiding, and finally the courage to fight back. Later in the line-up, we will also find the SS 2019 collections of Japanese designer, Issey Miyake, known for his technology-driven clothing designs. The S/S 2019 of Miyake is in zig-zag jacquard three-piece suits and washable knitted outwear in multi-coloured cotton, grey polyester, and water soluble thread. The technology behind the threads is such that they dissolve after the first wash leaving behind a three-dimensional texture.
Rick Owens presenting on the 20th draws her inspiration from Larry Legaspi, who he believes introduced camp ferocity into the mainstream and in his words, “set a lot of kids like me free, with his mix of art deco sexual ambiguity and raw black leather bombast.” His work is always found to have an inherent twisted Americana.
The 22nd of June is scheduled for the Japanese brand, Sacai and from Spanish luxury fashion house Loewe, under Creative Director Jonathan Anderson. Loewe will be taking the collection up a notch through the intrinsic content of his clothes. Switching from the slimmed-down New York schedule to Paris, we will also find Sies Marjan under its Creative Director, Sander Lak showcasing his spring 2020 collection on Saturday, occupying the conventional slot of Namacheko.
Other new arrivals include French label Phipps, which will be flowing down the runway on an opening day after Palomo Spain and Bode. The last day of the show has been set up for Ludovic de Saint Sernin. Among brands that have returned, we will find Y/Project. Ever since the takeover by Creative Director, Bruno Sialelli, this fashion week will be the brand’s first show. The last day, the 23rd of June will be exhibiting the collections of Lanvin, Christian Dada in the mid-noon, while Paulo Smith, Dunhill, and Celine along with few others in the evening.
This year’s Spring 2020 collection will also be seeing an array of couture by brands like Hungarian brand Nanushka, Los Angeles’ brand Rhude, Japanese brands Auralee and Visvim, Gamut and Casablanca from France and Lazoschmidl.
